Brendan's Track Car Build - Page 3

Brendan · #41 Jan 18, 2010, 17:35

More minor progress. Dash is all back together short of plugging a couple things in. Tidied up some engine bay wiring, final mounted my coolant reservoir, mounted my coils, and put matching ends on my plug wires.

Stevin · #42 Jan 20, 2010, 18:55

Your brake fluid resevoir where does it come from? I'm looking for something like that.

Brendan · #43 Jan 21, 2010, 07:37

It came with my Carbon Airbox kit. I think it's a BMW part, but I don't know the application or part #.

Brendan · #44 Feb 8, 2010, 16:22

No pictures, but a minor update.

I have run out of wires to connect. I even resorted to filling and bleeding the brakes and clutch this weekend, then touched up some undercoating underneath the car, fastened some heat shielding, and put the driveshaft back in. I really don't have all that much to do, one solid day and the car will be "mechanically" ready to start.

Where I'm at now: Figuring out a couple questions with the Megasquirt. I have it hooked up to a stim, and connected to my PC on my desk so I can get all my questions answered, and get it configured with a base tune for the first start.

Brendan · #45 Feb 15, 2010, 15:35

More Progress. Marked TDC on my balancer and timing chain cover so I can time the engine correctly once I get it up and running on the Megasquirt. Put the heat shielding back in, put the exhaust back on, test fit a new electric fan, got the airbox and filter back in, then did the first adjust of the throttle cable. Next up - finish the fan mount, then get the radiator back in and start filling it up with fluids. Then I just need to configure my dash, calibrate and install the WBO2 sensor, and then go through the final checklist to start it up....

Here's how the final coil wiring turned out:

A couple pictures of my balancer and trigger wheel setup:

Here's how she looks now:

And here's what I'm doing a lot of trying to get ready to start:

x-works · #46 Feb 15, 2010, 18:13

Looks very neat as usual Brendan.
I'd say you can't wait to get the first drive.
Is that Lee's CPS bracket?

Brendan · #47 Feb 15, 2010, 18:53

Yes the trigger wheel and the bracket for the VR sensor are both from Lee. Getting those fitted was pretty easy once I got the crank pulley off. Cheap too!

You're right, can't wait to drive it - I'm targeting on track in April for a shakedown / test drive.

Brendan

x-works · #48 Feb 15, 2010, 20:36

Do you have the part number for the Ford sensor
to use by any chance?
Cheers.

Brendan · #49 Mar 1, 2010, 15:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by x-works

Do you have the part number for the Ford sensor
to use by any chance?
Cheers.

Just saw this. I don't have the exact part number, but it is a crankshaft position sensor from a US 1991 - 1993 (I think) Ford Escort 1.9L. Here's some listings from RockAuto.com, The middle one is what I'd buy. You'd need a pigtail / connector too and some good shielded wire.

1991 FORD ESCORT LX 1.9L 116cid L4 MFI (J) : Ignition : Crankshaft Position Sensor

KEMPARTS Part # 147206
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # PC19
AIRTEX Part # 5S1740

Brendan · #50 Mar 1, 2010, 15:54

No pictures, but more progress. Mounted a Spal electric puller fan on my radiator, put the radiator and all the coolant lines in. Filled the car with coolant, oil, and fuel.

First step was to power up my dash to configure my gauges and warning lights. To my dismay, part of the display is dead, so I pulled the display to send it back to Racepak for repair / replace.

The next step, boot up the Megasquirt in the car and give a quick shot at starting it while datalogging to see what happened. It would not start, but I did identify a couple minor issues I need to fix. One of my coils is wired incorrectly so I need to snake a couple new wires to fix that. And, my TPS is wired backwards. Right now I have the megasquirt dealing with this and reversing the signal in the software, but I need to see if there are any other issues to doing this.

The only other thing worrying me, is that when pulling the plugs after cranking, they are dry and I could detect no fuel smell so I'm not sure if I have a fuel issue too - I still need to do some more testing here once I get the other issues fixed. My pump is working, and I get fuel out the return line when I crank, so if there is something it is with the injectors or the fuel control in the Megasquirt.

I'm going over my datalogs to see if I can identify anything else going on that would cause me trouble, so I am getting closer.

Brendan · #51 Mar 15, 2010, 15:46

No pictures, but some progress to report. Fixed my TPS wiring, fixed my coil wiring, and then went about debugging my fuel issue.

First pulled the injectors still attached to the rail and wiring harness, and verified I was getting no fuel when cranking. Removed the wiring harness, verified that I had 12V at the rail at all 4 injectors, and ran a jumper to an injector. Took a second wire, grounded the other pin of the injector, injector sprays fuel fine. Repeated this for all 4 injectors and verified that it's a Megasquirt configuration issue.

Took the megasquirt out, hooked it up to my computer and the stimulator (Little Megasquirt DIY test bench) and re-did my configuration and figured out how to get all of the injectors firing. Put the megasquirt back in the car and verified that I had fuel working now.

So now, try and start again. Cranking, cranking, and I was getting a lot of coughing and sputtering, but it wouldn't catch. Next step, pull the plugs and test for spark. Plugs 2&3 have spark, 1&4 do not. Back to the test bench.

Back on the stimulator I verify that the ground trigger for Coil 1 (Cylinders 1&4) is not firing. Spent a couple hours re-loading firmware and playing with the configuration again, and got the ground trigger working on the Stim.

But, at this point, I was running out of time and didn't want to rush myself into trying to start again - so I shelved it to think about everything. Theoretically, I now have fuel and spark - so I'm getting closer to turning it over. Now I just need to make sure fuel and spark comes at the right time, and in the right quantities

No car work for 10 days or so, but I've got a full 2-3 days the weekend after next. Keeping my fingers crossed that it's running and idling by the end of that weekend so I can start thinking about getting it on a dyno.

Brendan · #52 Mar 29, 2010, 16:06

No pictures this update because there's nothing "Visual" to update on, but the car is running for the first time in a year and a half...

Saturday morning I'd thought I had my ignition issues solved - I'd tested the MS on the bench, and was getting signals from the coil triggers, so was ready to try again in the car. Plugged everything in, turned the key, and got a lot of coughing and sputtering. I was even getting some backfiring out the intake and dislodged one of the 90 degree press fittings from the backpressure... Back to the drawing board.

From checking around, it seemed like my timing was way advanced, which got me thinking - could my coil triggers be reversed even though I've checked this 100 times? I broke out the multimeter, tested continuity from coil #1 all the way to the coil #1 output on the megasquirt - I had wired it correctly. That got me thinking, was the MS board wired correctly? I checked the documentation vs the actual board wiring and it was reversed! The builder obviously wasn't as careful as he should have been... To test, went out to the car swapped my 1/4 & 2/3 spark plugs, turned the key, and the car fired right up!

At this point, the car was idling way high (2000 rpm), but it was running, and running smooth. I noticed I was getting a couple minor coolant leaks, and I didn't have a fan installed yet, so I shut it down for the day and went about fixing the leaks....

Brendan · #53 Mar 29, 2010, 16:34

Sunday with fixed coolant leaks, and a vacuum line hooked up that I noticed disconnected, I started the car up again. This time, the idle was even higher - 2500 to 3000 rpm. Hmmm. Shut it down and start debugging.

There aren't many things that will make a car idle that high, so my first thought was to check for vacuum leaks. I still have the ICV installed in my car (even though it's disabled in the MS configuration) so I started there. I pulled the ICV, verified that the valve wasn't stuck, and verified that it would snap closed when the car was turned on. After checking for vacuum leaks and not finding any, I very quickly started the car with the airbox off, and that got me thinking about the throttle bypass screws. Next step, airbox back on, adjust throttle plates closed as far as they would go without sticking, adjust bypass screws full closed, adjust idle screw full closed, and block off ICV for testing. Much better, but still idling 1500 - 2000 rpm.

At this point, I'd pretty much eliminated any vacuum leak potential, so took a look at the timing. Through a little bit of a goof, I was running way too much advance (~30 deg BTDC at idle). I don't know much about ignition tuning yet, but did have a copy of the stock map, so adjusted this back to the 3 - 10 degree range depending on rpm. That did it, had the idle back to < 900 rpm and was able to control it with the idle and bypass screws...

At this point, I couldn't run the car long because I still didn't have my fan hooked up, so it was time to shut it down and get the electric fan running. Megasquirt has an output to control the fan automatically (ground trigger) and I have a switch to override (+12V trigger). To get both working, I wired in two additional relays - one for the MS and one for the switch, with the hot output of each spliced together and going to the fan. Not that hard in concept, but it took awhile to run the wiring and mount the relays.

With the fan mounted and working via the switch (still need to program the automatic control) it was time to clean up and call it a weekend. Now that I have my idle advance and my idle much better, I realized that my warmup enrichments and cold advance tables need attention so the car will start when cold, but that's for next time...

All said and done, a successful weekend.

davew · #54 Mar 29, 2010, 17:45

Brendan, it's great to live and learn through the experiences of others - an interesting read and congratulations for having the patience to knock off all the little issues and be able to write about them!

Cheers, Dave.

Brendan · #55 Mar 30, 2010, 22:03

Thanks Dave, it's been a great learning experience. I'm just glad it's running and I can start learning how to tune now.

Brendan · #56 Apr 5, 2010, 18:48

Another "no picture" weekend.

My CF airbox is flowing so much better than the AFM / stock airbox, I've been having trouble getting the car to idle as low as I'd like. After doing some testing, I took my ICV out and it's staying out. With the megasquirt I have full control over Cold Advance and Cold Enrichment, so I can add both fuel and advance the timing depending on the coolant temperature, and have it taper back to the standard map as the car warms up. So far, I've had no trouble getting the car to start, and I've tested it down to about 39F. I now have both rubber lines that ran to the ICV cut, and plugged until I find a more elegant solution to maintain an operable idle screw and vacuum for the FPR.

I was also getting some noise in my VR sensor readings at low RPMs that was causing the engine to "lose sync". After searching around and finding that others had run into similar issues, I solved the problem by soldering a 10K resistor in-line with the VR signal wire. Hoping that's the end of the issues there.

Among other things: Took apart some of the fittings on my coolant reservoir and am buying new parts to fix a minor coolant leak. Replaced the fusible link in the trunk with a replaceable fuse (after frying the link). Configured and tested my fan control.

Next up: Final install / configuration of my Racepak dash after getting it repaired. Replace coolant fittings. Check valve clearances so I can buy shims for a valve adjust. Warm up the car, sync the throttle bodies, double check timing, re-check idle. Then it's time to bolt on the bumper, bolt in the seats, and think about getting her to a dyno for some tuning!

Brendan

Brendan · #57 Apr 11, 2010, 20:43

Another update coming later, but here's a quick video from my crappy point and shoot. For those of you eagle eyes, the tach is reading 50% of the actual value - I hadn't finished setting it up. IIRC I was idling 1000 - 1100 rpm when I shot the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tqEe4SMsp98

Brendan · #58 Apr 12, 2010, 15:54

Well, another weekend of more progress. I already posted the video above, but here's some other stuff that's going on.

Replaced some leaky coolant fittings at my expansion tank. Re-installed and configured my Racepak dash that I'd sent away for a warranty repair. Adjusted back the idle timing to match the stock motronic map and got the car warmed up and idling again. For those of you who haven't seen the Megasquirt tuning software, it's actually pretty nice:

Configurable dashboard:

Another real-time display for monitoring what's going on with the car and ECU:

One of the tuning windows. This specifically is the fuel map and the autotune functionality. You set a target AFR map, and then let the Megasquirt adjust the fuel as you traverse your fuel map until you're hitting the correct AFR's.

Next up, hooked up my Carbtune manometer and tried to sync up the throttle bodies best as I could. Unfortunately, this also bumped my idle up a little bit as I'd had the bypass screws full closed.

My super trick tuning bench in the car:

Also had some grip tape put down in the footwells:

My dash re-installed (RPM reading half of actual here)

Then it was time to make sure that the car could get itself on and off the trailer under it's own power, and do a little bit of a test fit with all my tie downs. My camera was on the fritz a little, sorry for some of these being out of focus.

After that, a friend showed up with a case of beer, and that stopped the progress right there...

Next weekend: Coolant overflow bottle, new front adjustable swaybar links, tidy up some wiring loom in the engine bay, mount a tow strap, the front bumper and grill. Then, I need to install all the bolts and mounts for my 6 point harnesses before final mounting the seats.

One more week until dyno tuning and an alignment, three more weeks until I head to the Monticello Motor Club with COM.

Brendan · #59 Apr 18, 2010, 23:38

More progress, and I'm getting real close to having this thing ready for the track...

Did some more fine tuning of the Megasquirt, I've done pretty much all I can sitting in my garage. Mounted a rear view mirror. Put in mounting plates for the driver's side 6 point harnesses, drilled the holes for the passenger side, final mounted the driver's seat and mounted the driver's harness. Temporarily mounted the passenger seat. Mounted a coolant overflow bottle. Tried to rough in the alignment, and set the correct length for my front adjustable swaybar links. Mounted a tow strap and cut a slit in the front bumper for it to pass through. Mounted the front bumper, front grill, and the block off plates near the windshield wipers. Mounted in a new lightweight battery. A couple pictures:

Lastly, loaded her up on the trailer. I love this, the trailer fits completely back into the garage - ready to head to the dyno for tuning on Tuesday!

Kiko · #60 Apr 19, 2010, 00:21

Brendan,

your idle is high because the TB screws are out too much. Undo the main bypass screw a couple of turns then close the the TB screws all the way in and then undo them a turn each (what BMW recommends), adjust the TB's from there and in the end adjust idle.

I had a high-ish idle condition on my Sport Evo and took me 6 months to get my head around this until I found that all previous services TB adjustments were done unscrewing so I ended up with 3 to 4 turns out each screw creating enough flow to outflow the bypass screw.